The Cross and the Cleaver: “National” Since When?
Food is inescapably linked with the land that produces it, the people that cook it, and the history that played a role in the above factors. Then there is always an element of national pride and heritage thrown into the mix, and that is where fun, conversations and problems often begin.
I believe it was Jeremy Paxman who in his book “The English – A Portrait of a People” referred to a census whereby chicken Vindaloo was declared a national dish of England. My internet search revealed that the quintessentially British roast beef with all the trimmings or steak-and-kidney pudding are overall less popular than “curry-in-a-bag.” Perhaps nostalgia for days of Raj is stronger than desire for the fare of days of old.
This does provide an opportunity though to ask what exactly a “national dish” or “traditional accompaniment” is etc. Whenever I hear such statements, I want to ask: “since when?” After all, there were no potatoes in Ireland prior to 1589. Rice is not native to Mexico, and it has not become a staple of Greek cuisine until after 10th century. Cabbage made it to Poland in the middle of the 14th century. Yet all of these are considered traditional elements of cuisine of respective nations.
Historically – all the above has been fluid, and always uniquely located in the context of time. I like to think of, and eat, the food of Poland I grew up in. It was a blend of dishes from my parents’ respective household traditions and local fare often augmented with what was cheap and available to make up for shortfalls. There was street food now associated with the times. Some of it deserves being called traditional.
How about we have a dinner that blends all of these elements I mentioned?
Appetizer – Herring a la japonaise (has absolutely nothing to do with Japan).
In a bowl mix 1 cup of sour cream, 1 cup of green peas (canned or thawed out), ¼ cup of finely diced onion and ½ cup of diced apple. Spread the mixture in a shallow serving dish. On top arrange slices (or pieces) of pickled herring, sliced hard boiled eggs and sliced tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper.
Soup – my grandfather called it “bouillon” and told me it was something that industry directors often partook in when on business trips.
Break egg yolks into a pot (one egg yolk per person, plus one for the pot). Slowly pour in boiling hot clear chicken broth (powdered, canned, homemade – whatever) whisking vigorously to make sure there are no “floaters.” Amount of broth – approx. 150 mL per person. Season with black pepper and serve in cappuccino sized teacups.
Main – beans a la Breton (again, nothing to do with Brittany and once a staple of every mountain hut/hostel). EASY VERSION.
In a large pot combine: 1 cup of fried bacon chunks, 1 cup of sliced ready-made sausage, 2 cups of white beans (the bigger the better) and 1L of cream of tomato soup (yeah – use cans). Season with pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, mix well and simmer until heated through. Serve with slices of rye or sourdough bread.
Dessert – I still remember always wanting it when I was younger.
Arrange in a glass: layer of blueberries, layer of whipped cream, layer of redcurrants, layer of whipped cream, layer of blackberries, layer of whipped cream, layer of raspberries, layer of whipped cream, top with shaved chocolate. Serve chilled.
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